Also buy a hack–saw with 32 teeth p

Also buy a hack–saw with 32 teeth per inch, some sandpaper in 320 and 600 grit, and a razorblade knife.• Cut the pipe into 6–inch, 7–inch and 8–inch lengths for 4x5 inch film; 8-inch , 9-inch andperhaps 10-inch (you may not need the 10-inch) lengths for 5x7 inch film, and 11-inch and 12-inchpieces for 8x10 inch film. Or choose lengths more appropriate for your needs. Just make sure you canget the sheet of film all the way into the tube with at least a half inch of play at each end and that theyare not too long to fit within the short dimension of the tray you plan to use.Why the different lengths of tube? That’s easy. It allows you to process different sheets of film for differentlengths of time without having to count or otherwise keep track of which film is which, during development.• Use the razor knife to scrape the shavings off the ends of each tube, then sand the ends with the320 grit paper followed by the 600 grit paper, until smooth. Or you can use a Dremel-style tool to buffthe ends out in no time. Beauty doesn’t matter, a good thing with that Dremel too! Wash out the tubesin soapy water, then rinse and dry. You are now ready to process.• Set up your darkroom exactly the same way you would for tray processing of sheet film,including pre–soak, etc. The only difference is that you must use larger trays. I use 11x14 trays for my4x5 and 5x7 film, a 16x20 tray for 8x10 film. For 4x5 film I use 1.5 liters of chemistry in the 11x14 trays.To be sure, put two or three tubes in an empty tray, fill with water to where you are sure the film wouldhave adequate exposure to developer (about a third of the way up the center of the tube), then measurethe liquid. That is the amount of developer, etc., you will need for that size film