Denim has become much more difficult to source that is 100% cotton, we've been seeing the trend get bigger and bigger with the infusion of 'athleisure' and comfort in the market. The technology behind four-way stretch has really been perfected and is now offered in multiple fits, colors, and lengths with Lycra infusion and retention retaining. Material that contains Lycra is not suitable for use in papermaking in that it creates multiple problems in the paper making processes and for intended end uses. Within the papermaking the Lycra fibers float and therefore are not evenly dispersed in the paper stock which is 99% water during forming. When these fibers are contained within the produced paper sheet it becomes unsuitable for laminating or coating as many of these synthetic fibers are loosely adhered to the surface layer of the paper. When subjected to adhesive or coating dip these loose fibers tend to build up on coating rolls and plug meyer rods. As such we are left with fewer choices in clean 100% new denim. This also limits our choice in the shades of denim contained within a bale of raw material. While all the denim we use is blue there has been a recent trend towards darker shades on both the front as well as the back of the denim clippings