In the late afternoons, once the sun is in decline, we take long walks over the beach. The thin strip of sand, a barrier between the jungle and the ocean, appears like a snake on the map in the lodge. Walking on it, however, is a different story. The smooth wet sand, constantly shifted by the tides, gives way to a second buffer zone of weedy dunes and tall grasslands that end abruptly against a wall of sixty-foot tall trees. The change is so sharp, it seems almost man-made but, of course, humans have relatively little impact here compared with most of our planet.