For decades "milk" was the white stuff you poured over your cereal or into coffee. The ubiquity of cows' milk often had unpleasant consequences for the majority of humanity incapable of digesting it. The lactose-intolerant learned to drink their coffee black and eat their toast dry.These days, however, consumers looking for an alternative are spoiled for choice: plant-based milks are everywhere, in more than a dozen varieties. Which is best?