On the pattern are marked the chest

On the pattern are marked the chest and waist lines; the hips-seat line in this case coincides with the bottom edge of the pattern and it is 8’1/4 inches down from the waist line. At the hips-seat level a “wedge” of 5/8 inch has been effected in the pattern, running to nothing at the front scye and taken along the front-of -scye line.The anatomical drawing on page 52 gives basically the shape of the back of the model and, by the solid outlines (1), the slope of her shoulders. (The shoulder-blades are indicated by XX). The dart taken out of the back shoulder in the shell jacket was, in the matter of size and shape, dictated by the figure surface contours.Other figures may have less shoulder slope (as the dash outlines 2), or more (as the dash outlines 3.) Shoulder-blade prominences may be higher or lower; they may be more towards the neck or inclined towards the arms.In the pattern and in the shell garment cut from it the idea was to make a correct fitting of the young lady’s shoulders, with no padding to be inserted but with allowance only for the necessary ease at the shoulder-points. The whole purpose of the experiment was to demonstrate the relation-ship between a pattern, a garment and a particular figure. The principles involved are applicable to a wide range of garments and to a large number of figure types. Standard Draft—Plate XXXVI